Last week I went on a two day trip that I didn't know I needed, to an island that I only recently knew existed. For years I lived in Korea and of course was well aware of Jeju - the island I dreamed of living on, but it was only this year that I first heard of Chuja-do. Considering I hadn't before heard of it one would think it's tiny, but that's not the case, there are even English teachers living on the island working for EPIK, my previous employer. With this fun fact of knowledge the four of us discussed whether or not we could live that life. I concluded that if I had enough personal work to do (blogging, pursuing a degree or certification, etc.) I'd likely be just fine. Although the more I reflect on my first year in Jeju I may reconsider, there's something to be said about the feeling of stuckness that comes with having to fly anytime you want to go visit a city or friends on the mainland. Regardless I was happy to be visiting Chuja for the two days we had and was ready to explore.
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This post should have been done ages ago, but thanks to a forgetful brain, it was put on hold for a while. I was originally invited to complete Olle course 12 in early November with two of my hiking pals, and while I did so, I left my Olle passport at home which meant I'd have to go back and do it again. I knew I had plenty of time for such, so I wasn't too bothered to do it without the record and anyway, I thoroughly enjoy the company of these two - not to mention the good food we always track down after walking all day. Course 12 is on the west coast of Jeju Island, a region I have rarely explored, so I was excited to see some new scenery.
After [eating] our way through Yeongdeok and Gyeongju we were ready for a little more time at home, which ironically just meant more food. I managed a successful stop at the outlet mall in Daegu, thanks solely to Uniqlo and we had equal success at a buckwheat noodle restaurant in the Palgongsan area of the city. Noodles in Korea are, for me, a hit or miss. Half the time I'm bored after a few bites, but on the other hand there are times I want to dive into a never-ending bowl. I had high hopes for this one, but it was actually the ddeokdorimuk and buckwheat pancake that stole the show. I thought surely I would be able to skip dinner that evening, but shortly after arriving home I was presented with a take-out menu and asked what we should order for dinner. Magically I was able to put away a heaping plate of jokbal and of course a handful of shots to go with it, I mean I couldn't say 'no' to sampling dad's liquor collection.
Less than a month ago I was still writing about spring break part 1 in Taiwan, yet here we are on the other side of spring break Part 2. There are definitely days that I complain about this job, and I sometimes wonder if my skills couldn't be better utilized elsewhere, but the vacation time really is a sweet reward. For April break we decided to stay in Korea, in part to save money, but also so that we had a chance to visit Seohui's family before jetting off to America. The trip quickly turned into a bit of a reunion tour for Seohui, with stops in Gyeongju and Busan - his University and High school towns, and both cities I've always loved to visit. I snuck in a visit to my first home, Buksam and was eager to meet up with old friends along the way. Wanting to add a new experience we also decided to add Yeongduk to the list, where I'd finally be able to taste the long heard about King Crab. Despite my desire to stay put after our constant movement in Taiwan, I found myself on a similar time-line for this break as well, but I was excited for each step of the journey and knew rest would be waiting for me back in Jeju.
One of the most popular beach destinations on Jeju Island, Hyeopjae, is home to one of my favorite views on the island, a vast sea with Biyangdo in the distance. I probably have numerous photos that I've collected over the years on each of my trips to Jeju, however, I never actually considered visiting the island. That is until one of my friends here at BHA invited me to do so and I jumped at the chance. I knew there was a boat to the island, obviously people living there need to get off sometimes, but I didn't realize it was a frequently visited tourist destination.
It wasn't long ago that I was writing about my winter break in Thailand, and here we are already reliving winter break part 2. When I came back to Korea this time around, it wasn't the job or pay that sold me on this gig, but rather the extensive amount of time off. Our school has thus far been off for Chuseok, late fall, winter/holiday break, Seollal, and next week is our first of two spring breaks. For anyone currently living in Korea under the hagwon schedule, my deepest condolences. I once lived that life, fighting for my 10 days of vacation, but no more of that, I'm growing very accustomed to my nearly 50/50 work to vacation mode. This is the lifestyle I'm accustomed to after all, in the past it was more like one year on, 6 months off, but I'll take these interspersed holidays with glee. None of what I've said so far should come as a surprise, but the plans I chose to make with my second winter holiday may shock some. Instead of running off to some tropical island, remember SE Asia is at my fingertips, I chose a stay-cation followed by a long weekend in Seoul. Winter in Jeju is a mixed bag of surprises, we went from ice rain to warm sunny skies, soon followed by normal rain and of course the bitterly cold wind. Through all of this I forgot that Seoul experiences a pretty standard winter, with most days hovering in the just above or below freezing range, and somehow I decided that was what I wanted for my winter break.
The majority of my experience walking Olle trails has been a solo venture. The trails have always been a place for me to clear my mind, absorb and appreciate the beauty of Jeju, stretch my legs, and disassociate from being an adult. Recently though I've developed friendships with a few lovely individuals who share my passion of nature and happen to enjoy my company. The trails have allowed us to disconnect from work and technology, instead filling our time with conversation and contemplating what's next in these lives which hold so many choices and opportunities ahead of us. I was able to fit in a few trails on the warm days of December, before temperatures dropped and snow dotted the island.
This was my first year in Korea without a solid plan for the Lunar New Year holiday. For the first three years I lived here, I took these days off as an opportunity to travel outside the country. The first coinciding with my winter vacation to Malaysia, Singapore and Bali, while the second year I celebrated in Hong Kong. Two years ago I had a completely different experience, celebrating family style with my ex-boyfriend, his parents and even an afternoon visit Grandma's house - my first and only 세뱃돈 (New Years Money). A few students asked me if I would go home to see my family during the new year, a question I've gotten in previous years as well, but one that still surprises me. Not only do Americans not really celebrate the Lunar New Year, but there was no way I was about to do a 15+ hour round trip for a four day weekend. Funny that most Koreans consider a weekend trip to Seoul (roughly 3 hours) too long, but my 15+ commute home would be understandable. Not wanting to stay home alone for the weekend, I decided to take the opportunity and head down to Busan.
It's kind of crazy how much of a contradiction I am to myself. While I'm viewed by many as a globe trotter, nomad or world explorer who can't sit still, I'm equal parts homebody, total hermit. Having been back in Daegu for a month I've done very little outside a few kilometer radius of my apartment. I work across the street and everything I need is within walking distance of home; shops, restaurants, parks and even the train station. I did get out a few times, visiting Gumi to volunteer at Samsungwon, but other than that winter has sent me into hibernation mode. Two weeks ago though, my co-worker Elizabeth asked for ideas of what to do in Daegu and where to go with her boyfriend, who'd be visiting from the States. I recommended Dongwhasa, one of my favorite temples in not only Daegu, but the whole of Korea. Seeing some hesitation I offered to tag along, playing tour guide for the day, making it the third time I did so, previously introducing my mom and Peter, on their visits in 2013 and 2016 respectively.
Having the ability to show up in a foreign country and contact a friend has always been a dream of mine. I remember thinking that if I studied abroad in University I could make friends from around the world and then later go meet them in their hometowns. I did study abroad, but most of the people I met during that time were fellow Americans, a majority of whom were from the Midwest, so much for those global connections I dreamt of. Thankfully though, life doesn’t end at 21 and I still had plenty of time to fulfill those dreams. Today I’ve got friends in many corners of the world all of which have come from connections made during both my time teaching in Korea and also the traveling I’ve done during and after.
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AsiaKoreaWhere to start. After living on and off in this country for nearly 10 years I have memories, experiences and stories galore. I'll now always be a bit partial to the Land of the Morning Calm. Filled with delicious foods, beautiful nature and friendly people, I'm always happy to return. Archives
June 2023
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